Drag Alignment Tips

The goal is to get the front and rear camber as close to 0° as possible when the car launches to maximize tire footprint and eliminate tire scrub when going down track which will help improve your trap speed

Front Camber Setup:

  1. Make sure that the car is on a level surface and at the ride height is set as

  2. Using a digital level place it on the front brake rotor making sure it is vertical. 

  3. Record that value, this is the "Static camber" value and should closely match your alignment sheet for front camber

  4. Next, raise both sides of the the front of the car to simulate the ride height at launch.

  5. Record the value, this is what we refer to as the "Dynamic camber at launch" and will give you an idea of the camber change you get as the front end rises.

  6. If we subtract the "Dynamic camber at launch" from the "Static camber" this will give us a good idea of how much camber we want to either add or pull out of the front when we do the wheel alignment. 

  7. For setting toe we want to try to get the car to the same attitude as when running at going down track. For most cars using the statid ride height of the front is a good baseline. If your car maintains a significant “Nose Up” attitude or tends to squat going down track then the vehicle height should be adjusted to simulate that condition when setting toe.

Rear camber Setup

This is amore involved because you need to compress the rear suspension to determine how the camber will change when the car squats. Also note that due to limits of the stock adjusters, it will be difficult to get to zero camber at launch.

  1. With the car is on a level surface record the static ride height by measuring from the ground to the top wheel well. Do this on each side

  2. Using a digital level place it on the rear brake rotor making sure it is vertical. 

    1. Record that value, this is the "Static camber" value and should closely match your alignment sheet for rear camber

  3. Raise both sides of the car using a jack under the jack point and remove the rear springs.

  4. Lower the car so it is sitting back at the static ride height you measured in step 1

  5. Next, lower the rear of the car to simulate how much the car will squat at launch

  6. Using a digital level in the same spot on brake rotor as was used in step 2 measure and record the value.This is what we refer to as the "Dynamic camber at launch" and will give you an idea of the camber change you get as the rear squats.

  7. If we subtract the "Dynamic camber at launch" from the "Static camber" this will give us a good idea of how much camber we want to either add or pull out of the rear when we do the wheel alignment. 

Setting Toe

  1. For setting toe we want to try to get the car to the same attitude as when running at going down track. For most cars using the statid ride height of the front is a good baseline.

  2. If your car maintains a significant “Nose Up” attitude or tends to squat going down track then the vehicle height should be adjusted to simulate that condition when setting toe.

Important note regarding rear toe:

When stopping the car and/or pulling the parachute at the end of the pass the rear of the car may raise significantly. If it does thisc the rear alignment will change toward “Toe Out” . On cars with a parachute, this is not as impactful because the parachute is helping keep the car going straight. If not using a parachute the back of the car can start to wander. Because of this, a small amount of static rear toe will help keep the car more stable when applying the brakes.

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